February 1996
This is a guide to the better Pubs of London. Not all of them may be listed, but most all London pubs should be. A key element of this guide is using the tube to pub crawl. I have been to every pub in this guide and consider the areas they are in to be safe, but look for my cautionary notes. The purpose of this guide is to highlight good pubs for you and your friends to stop and have a good beer and a good time. This is not meant to be a diner's guide.
Here is how to read the listings. The guide is in alphabetical order by pub name (tied house or free house) along with the district it is in. The address is next, with phone number if it is known. Other, more expensive guides have just an address to pubs and other sites. Having just an address may not always be enough so I have the corner or cross streets listed to pin-point the location on a map. The nearest under-ground station is given and the line. For ex-ample:
Blackfriar station, Circle/District line
If more than one station is listed they are about equal distance from the pub. Pubs listed are in the underground zone 1 unless noted.
Pubs do not sell bottled beer to go. You buy them at package stores. Some pubs sell draft beer to go in polypins (milk jugs).
When drinking at the bar, do not leave money on the bar. It is not polite. If you plan to tip the bartender do not leave your money and walk away. They may chase you to give it back thinking you forgot your money. Ask the bartender if you can buy him a drink.
We all know the never-ending work of the bartender. But English Pubs have a very important person called the Cellarman. This person sees to the needs of the casks and lines in a good pub.
A free house is owned by a corporation or independent brewery. Because corporations do not brew beer, and independents are small, a free house will serve many other brands. If it were not for free houses, London would be nothing but pubs. A tied house is owned by a major brewery and serves the brewery's own, and most always Guinness. Most draft ale is called Bitter, a pale ale, low in carbonation. One note about the beer in pubs. If they do not know about your favorite beer, even if they make it, do not be surprised. Many beers we get in the states are labeled for this market only.
For a listing of independents and the majors, see publications by CAMRA.
London pubs are a way of life for the British. They are in many ways an extension of their homes. They meet their friends there for an evening social and may often have their dog at their side. In the winter many pubs have a fire glowing. At best they look more like a home than a tavern. Pubs are quiet places. Keep your voice down and do not hoot as many now do in American bars.
When somebody has a favorite pub near home in which they patronize often (daily) it is refered to simply as "my local". For patron and Publican this could go on for years. One story has it that a gentleman would walk his dog to his local everyday. He would sit and solve the world's problems with his friends, as we all have done, and then go home. One day as he entered his home, the pub was calling. "Come back, you forgot your dog".
Taking photographs of each other in pubs should be all right. You should ask permission first if using a video tape or wanting to photograph the bar. Remember, you may be on vacation but the locals are home.
This is important. Please be aware of Drinking-up Time. Prior to closing the Publican will ring a ship's bell (you can see it behind the bar). You will have 10 minutes to finish your drink and then you must leave. The Publican will see to it that you do not take your time about it.
Most pubs open at 11.00 (11:00 AM) and close at 23.00 (11:00 PM). Since 1987, most London pubs stay open between 15.00 to 17.30. Nicholson's Pub Guide states that you must buy food during these hours, but I do not think that is true anymore. At one time they were closed during these hours, by law, and some country pubs continue to close at this time. Sunday times were from 12.00 - 14.00 and 19.00 - 22.30. As of September 1995, the Sunday afternoon closing has been repealed, but that does not mean that all pubs will be opened. All times are Greenwich Mean Time.
The underground is a good way to zip across town fast. The first thing to do is buy a pass, at any station. At this writing they have a one day and three day pass. This is better than having to queue to buy a ticket each time you enter a station. You will also need your pass or ticket to exit. In most cases you will only need a zone 1 pass unless you know you will be in outer zones a lot. A Zone 1 pass will work in outer zones but you will have to pay extra. Please note that the underground and taxis may be unavailable after midnight.
Look at your underground map and see where you are going. The large posters on the walls of the stations are easy to follow. They show which stations are along the line from "this" station in both directions. If you see your stop on the poster, then go that way. Some-times the line will split. This is com-mon for the Cir-cle and District lines. The electronic signs on the platforms will post the next train and its destination. And yes, the tube is a nightmare at rush hour.
When you slip your pass into a turnstile, place your hand over the exit slot. Another's hand may take your pass and run.
The numbers listed in this guide give the area code + local number. The area code for central London is 0171 and for outer London is 0181. As in the states, you need not dial the code if you are in the area.
If you are calling from the states you will need to dial the International Access Code (011) + The country code (44) + city code (171 or 181) + local number. Note: you do not dial the 0 when calling from the states.
London is five hours ahead in time from Pittsburgh.
For the best book on terms see Camra Dictionary of Beer by Brian Glover.
I recommend a good map, or the Geographers' A-Z street atlas. The London Map by Bensons Maps shows selected pubs. A good pub book is the London Pub Guide by Nicholson. These were used to prepare this guide.
This guide is free for anyone to use. If something needs to be changed or updated, please send it to me:
Edward P. Vidunas
69 South 11 St.
Pittsburgh, Pa. 15203-1220
e-mail epvnetwork@msn.com
Remember to check your hotel room door
when leaving.
They do not always lock by themselves.
Thank You
Kathy Hinsman for proof reading.
Ralph Colaizzi for putting this on the internet. This can be found in the TRASH homepage http://ralph.pair.com/trash.html
(Watney's)
Westminster
52 Victoria St. SW1, at Buckingham Gate
0171-222 5577
St. James Park Station, Circle/District Lines
Remarks: Beautiful cut glass windows and original gas lights. Restaurant on second floor. Very good pub food for lunch. Close to New Scotland Yard. A must stop and a nice walk from Victoria Station. After dark, Westminster Cathedral (along the way) is lighted and beautiful. Retired military men drink here in uniform often. One of my guide books says they open M-F at 8.00 for breakfast; please report. Look out for large tour buses out front since this pub is a stop for many guided tours.
(Semi-free house)
Mayfair
41 Mount St. W1, at South Audley St.
0171-499 1843
Bond St. Station, Central/Jubilee Lines
Remarks: Two blocks south from the US Embassy. Good for lunch and good to look at.
(Off-licence)
Shoreditch
Pitfield St. N1, at Old St.
0171-739 3701
Old St. Station, Northern Line
Remarks: REAL ALE. -Not a pub but a beer store to buy ales and homebrew to bring back. Owned by the Pitfield Brewery. Mon to Fri., 11.00 - 19.30 and Sat. 10.00 - 16.00. You may want to go here during daylight. The Shoreditch area is where the first Porters were made. Sorry, they can't ship it back for you.
(Nicholson Free house)
The City
174 Queen Victoria St. EC4
0171-236 5650
Blackfriar Station, Circle/District Lines
Remarks: Closed Sat. eve. & all Sun. Open to 22.00. All stone, like an old church, built in 1903. You must look and read every nook and cranny. A good lunch. They have the largest fireplace I have ever seen in a pub. A must stop, then go to the Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese.
(Samuel Smiths')
Marylebone
12-13 Wells St W1, at East Castle
0171-4
Remarks: It has some of the best stained glass you will see in any pub.
Off Trafalgar Square
29 St. Martin's Lane WC1, at William IV St.
0171-836-1401
Charing Cross Station, Bakerloo Line
Leicester Sq., Piccadilly Line
Remarks: Across from the National Gallery. A must stop for Sam Smith lovers. Cask ales in the wood. On a slow afternoon they may give you a cellar tour.
(Samuel Smith's)
145 Fleet St. EC4, at Wine Office Court
0171-353 6170
Blackfriar Station, Circle/Disrtict Lines
Remarks: Closed Sat. & Sun. Open to 21.00. Near Dr. Johnson's house. Polypins for take away. I have not been here since they remodeled some years ago. It has more than one bar on three floors.
Holborn
22 High Holborn St. WC1
0171-242-7670
Holborn Station, Central/Piccidilly Lines
Remarks: Old Brewery Bitter from an oak cast. Triangular fireplace in middle of floor. This place is medieval.
(Free house)
St. Katharine's Docks at Tower Bridge
St. Katharine's Way E1
at St. Katharine's Docks
0171-488-1226
Tower Hill Station, Circle/District Lines
Remarks: REAL ALE. A good stop after seeing the Tower and Tower Bridge. See if they still have Dickens Own, a cask bitter (1040) or Special (1050). You can walk through the top of Tower Bridge. It's a great view of the pubs.
The Barbican
115 Charterhouse St. EC1
across from the Central Markets
0171-253 4838
Barbican Station, Metropolitan Line
Remarks: Open 07.00 - 22.00 Monday thru Fridays. 08.00 - 12.00 Sat. At 07.00 you can get steak and Old Growler Porter for breakfast.
Soho
42 Glassblower St. W1, at Brewer St.
0171-734-8547
Piccadilly Circus, Piccadilly Line
Remarks: Real ale on tap. Cosy pub like you see on TV.
Kensington
Grand Hall, Olympia, London
0171-727-867-201
011-44-171-727-867-201 (from the states)
This is off most maps. It is west of Kensington Gardens off Kensington High Street.
Kensington (Olympia) Station, District Line
This station is on restricted service. Next nearest station is Shepherd's Bush on the Central Line. It's to the north and a walk.
Remarks: Annual event in August sponsored by CAMRA. For 1996 it will be from the 6th. through the 10th.
(Youngs)
Bloomsbury
94 Lamb's Conduit St. WC1, at Gulford St.
0171-405 01713
Russell Square Station, Piccadilly Line
Remarks: Snob screens but a warm look. I could say more but see this Victorian Pub for yourself. One block from the Sun. Named after Mr. Lamb who built a drain under the street, thus Lamb's Conduit. The Lamb has a sunken drinking area which leads to an outside courtyard.
(Fuller's)
18 Holborn EC1, at Furnival St.
0171-405-7077
Chancery Lane Station, Central Line
Remarks: Real Fullers.
Leicester Sq.
28 Leicester Sq. WC2
0171-839-2837
Leicester Sq., Piccadilly/Northern Lines
Remarks: This is a bit more modern pub that will mellow with age. Good ales on tap. A jewel in Leicester Square.
49 Great Russell St. WC1, at Museum St.
0171-242 8987
Tottenham Ct. Station, Central/Northern Lines
Holborn Station, Central/Northern Lines
Remarks: A good selection of ales on tap and they vary so you never know what's on until you get there. Across the street from the British Museum. A good selection of fine ales and Bitters kept me in here more than the museum.
(Free house & Brew pub)
Belgravia
37 Pimlico Rd. SW1, at St. Barnabas St.
0171-730 5378
Slone Square Station, Circle/District Lines
Remarks: Cozy brew-pub with ale to warm your toes and gas lights to rest your eyes. Someone usually has a dog with them. They have been known to make a great hot toddy in winter. This is a nice walk from Victoria Station. Drink the SW2 (1050) and you will fly back.
7 Greek St. W1, at Manette St.
0171-437-1179
Tottenham Court Rd. Station, Northern/Central
Remarks: Real ales on tap. Very small place.
(Vaux free house)
Bloombury
208 High Holborn St.
0171-405-8816
Holborn Station, Central/PicidillyLines
Remarks: A big place with a comfortable look and feel. A good selection of ales, as well,
St. James Sq.
23 Crown Passage SW1
off Pall Mall
0171-930-8067
Green Park Station, Piccadilly Line
Piccadilly Station, Piccadilly Line
Remarks: You must look for Crown Passage for it is a small opening in a wall. Once through you will see the Lion and other small village shops.
2 Duke of York St. SW1
off Jermvn St.
0171-930 2030
Remarks: Behind Fortnum & Mason. You have to go just to look at the cut glass mirrors. This was an old Gin palace. They may open on Sat. at 11.00
Covent Garden
1 Garrick St. W1, at New Row
0171-836-9838
Covent Garden Station, Piccadilly Line
Leicester Sq. Station, Piccadilly Line
Remarks: A rotating line of fine ales and stouts. Great pub food. The manager I met in the early 90's was a Pittsburgh Penquin fan. This is a must stop pub.
(Whitbread)
Near Trafalgar Square
10 Northumberland St. WC2
0171-930 2644
Remarks: Mr. Holmes' "study" can be viewed on the second floor. Prior to 1957 it was the North-umberland Arms Hotel, which is mentioned in "The Hound of the Baskervilles." No Restaurant on Sunday
63 Lamb's Conduit St. WC1
at Great Ormond St.
0171-405 8278
Remarks: The Sun is no more since late 1995. It is now called Finnegans Wake. It has been stripped of its ales and honnor. Stay away.
Near Victoria Station
56 Buckingham Palace Road SW1
at Lower Belgrave St.
Victoria Station, Piccadilly Line
Remarks: A rustic looking pub with sawdust on a wood floor. Many pubs in this area, but this is the nicest.
(Charrington)
191 Drury Lane WC2, at High Holborn St.
0171-242-3155
Remarks: An inn has been here since 1201 and was a nunnery at one time.
Fulham
1 Parsons Green SW6, at St. Dionis St.
0171-736 2115
Parson's Green Station, District Line, Zone 2
Make sure the train is for the District line to Wimbledon. Circle trains do not go there and the other District trains go elsewhere.
Remarks: Huge pub. Excellent lunch with great ales. They have won "Best Cellar" awards many times. Worth going to. They have strong ale festivals at times. Sat. & Sun. openings at 11.00.
Shepherd Market/Mayfair
16 Shepherd Market W1
Between White Horse & Curzon St.
0171-499-1563
Green Park Station
Remarks: A true free house, it is privately owned. It is opened every day. It has a coal fireplace and Persian rugs on an old wood floor.
(Free house & Brew Pub)
2 Theobald's Road WC1, at Gray's Inn Road
0171-405-2519
Remarks: Real Ales brewed on premises. Poly-pins for take away. A short walk from the Lamb.
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